The Finished DIY Cedar Patio Table

Here’s a few pics of the (re)finished cedar patio table.  It took some time to strip, sand, and re-stain the table, but it’s totally worth it!  See the plans on how to build this table here.

cedar_patio_table_1 cedar_patio_table_2 cedar_patio_table_3

Based on Aaron’s question, here’s a link to some of the screws used in this project. I recommend stocking up on the 1 1/4″ size screws, as you will use a TON of these if you do much work in 3/4″ material.

33 thoughts on “The Finished DIY Cedar Patio Table

  1. Pingback: Bryan's Site | DIY Cedar Patio Table Plans

  2. Pingback: Bryan's Site | Not all finishes end up perfect

  3. What color of Sikkens Cetol SRD did you use to finish? Other than not skimping on brush, any other finishing suggestions/tips?

    • This is the Mahogany 045. Other than the above, take your time sanding to get a nice smooth surface, then enjoy for years to come. Thanks!

  4. Do you have plans or suggestions on how to finish the table so you do not need to use bolts for the legs and keep all hardware hidden?

  5. Hi Bryan

    Great looking table and also great instructions on how to make it. Have you tried to replicate the chairs that go along with the table from PotteryBarn? Any advices on how to get those, or some similar cedar wood chairs for the outside living? Thank you much

    • I haven’t tried the chairs. I just picked up some of the $20 sling back chairs from Home Depot and they work great. I might try to make some matching cedar chairs one day, but there’s no way I can even come close to doing it for $20 per chair.

  6. Your table is beautiful. I did notice that you posted that you mitered the table perimeter vs butt jointing (as the Pottery barn table). Your dimension drawing shows mitered perimeter; your work in progress pics and finished table is butt jointed. So you did not miter the perimeter.

  7. i love this design. Quick question, did you stain and finish before doing the final assembly or did you stain and finish once assembled? seems like it would be easier to do before hand, after all holes are drilled and cuts are made.

    thanks

    • I stained after assembly. Either way would work, however, I like to do one final sanding after assembly, so I stain after that step.

  8. I really like this table design and simple joinery. However, I see boards joined with the grain at 90 deg. to each other. Did this result in distortion of the top due to competing expansion and contraction forces?

    • So far, no. It’s been out in the weather for 2 full summers and winters and does not seem to have any problem due to this. Every joint is screwed, not glued, so I believe the mechanical fastening is preventing long term problems.

  9. I’m looking at making an 8-seater table by extending this table to 76in. Do you think the 4 posts will be sufficient for that length of a table? BTW…this is a great looking table!!

    • Yes, I think it should work at that length. You get your stiffness from the vertical boards underneath the table, so don’t skip those! Let us know how it works out.

  10. any need to use the blue coated kreg screws? will the normal ones hold up in a project like this?

    thanks for the great plans!

    • I used a combination of both. For the kreg screws that were completely out of the weather, I think the standard ones will last quite a while, but if the location allows moisture to sit, I would recommend using the exterior coated screws.

  11. Thanks man!
    I finished mine a week or so ago, it’s been really nice. We having some neighbors over today for the full christening.
    I went slightly wider than the plans, for a golden rectangle shape, and slightly taller for ‘tall comfort’.
    This was my first project since I moved last year, so it took me a while, but was a perfect way to get my feet wet, and start rebuilding my shop (from scratch).

  12. Hi Bryan, could this table be built about 10 feet long with a more rustic picnic table style top for quicker building? I am needing to make 4 of these for events.

    • 10′ long could be possible, but I would think you would want a taller apron or to have maybe 2′ of overhang on each end. A 10′ span with legs on the corners will be fairly flexible.

  13. Bryan, awesome table. I was thinking of using Dominoes to join the aprons to the legs. Do you think that will give it enough stability or should I keep the aprons as you have them on the outside of the legs as you have them?

    • I’m not really familiar with Dominoes, but from what I’ve seen they are pretty strong. I’d say give it a go!

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